August 28, 2011

Moving West Isn't So Easy...

"Moving West is not easy -- but change is good!" So says my favorite West Coast blogger, Patricia Corrigan (former St. Louisan and Post-Dispatch colleague, now a writer living happily in San Francisco). Her blog? "Late to the Haight," latetothehaight.blogspot.com.

Alex and I may be a little late to Montana, as well.  On our very first vacation there in the early '90s, he announced that he wanted to live in the Bitterroot Valley someday. His childhood memories of summers driving cross country with parents, to swim and fish in the Bitterroot and Selway rivers and hangout with the Milner kids at their mountain-view home, are imprinted on his brain. I've had a heady dose of the Bitterroot, too. Our first attempt at buying something there in June fell through, when appraisals came in MUCH lower than our negotiated price and inspections turned up problems. But it was a charming cottage, perhaps one of the better ones on the south side of town. We hope that current owners are happy there.

We are still looking. A new cottage came to our attention in the last few days, and we asked our real-estate broker to take a look inside. It is narrow side-to-side and shotgun-like deep, just like the Camp Street house and others in mine and Alex's New Orleans experience...


"...it is very sweet," writes Vicky, our broker.  "It is an older home, 1910 or so, that has been remodeled and such throughout the years."   But it has a very small feeling inside, and it's located on the less valuable north side of town, with commercial property abutting this and some other north-side homes here and there.

We look on. And new friends help! That's one of the nicest parts of this process. Our photographer friend, Mel, sends us pictures of a gorgeous-if-new house for sale by owner, on property with stunning mountain views. Amy, another new contact, tells us about the house in town that a friend of hers wants to sell but is currently renting now. Months ago, Eric Milner sent us links to a beautiful little house, still for sale on the south side. Vicky keeps a regular check of new listings, and we feel like we're getting to know Hamilton really well, inside and out, by looking at all of these houses, there and online!

But as with the fishing while we were there, conditions are not quite right for us yet (with the fishing,  it was melting snowpack -- 250% heavier than usual -- that turned Western trout streams in June into a series of white-water deluges. See our first view (a video; iPhones, for example, may not be able to download it) of the usually serene and fishable Selway...



Hamilton, the county seat for Ravalli County, is worth the effort, we've decided. "The town of Hamilton is the central trade area for hundreds of small farms, ranches, and orchards that fill the valley," says one of its Web sites. "The Bitterroot Valley extends along U.S. Highway 93 from Missoula to the Idaho line. It includes the communities of Stevensville, Victor, Corvallis, Hamilton and Darby. Because of its location between the Bitterroot Range and the Sapphire Mountains, the climate in this corner of the state is more moderate than the rest of the state."

We've heard it called the "bananna belt" of Montana. And, indeed, it may have a slightly shorter growing season than the Midwest's, but its gardens in summer can be lush. 

 The town's pristine, fast-running irrigation ditches help in the growing process...
This ditch borders the garden pictured above.

Officially, Hamilton is designated Zone 5a by the USDA, for gardening with plants that have the same cold hardiness in winter as parts of Illinois and Iowa (minus 15 to minus 20). By comparison, St. Louis, says the USDA, is a warmer 6a (minus 5 to minus 10); many other parts of Montana are much colder, to minus 30 or below.

I've just purchased two Montana gardening books,  "Month-by-Month Gardening in Montana," by John Cretti and "The Montana Gardener's Companion" by Bob Gough and Cheryl Moore-Gough (the latter part of a Globe-Pequot series that I had the honor to contribute to for Missouri). I will study them for their differences and their similarities.


Meanwhile, the great out-of-doors there also can be as dangerous as it is beautiful. This -- the month of August -- is wildfire season in Montana. And The Missoulian already has reported on a number of fires, but fewer than in recent years. The heavy winter snows and rain in spring helped the situation. Still, a fire east of Missoula threatened a few homes.  http://missoulian.com/news/local/article_3e1c91e8-cd21-11e0-917e-001cc4c03286.html

We visited Hamilton one heavy fire season. We stayed in a motel where helicopter pilots and smoke jumpers tried to rest. We couldn't see the mountains for smoke. Breathing was difficult at times. But all of the homes in town are old enough to have survived dozens of fire seasons, or as many 100, in some cases. I'm not worried about fires.

In fact, I'm so curious. I went looking for pictures of the historic year-2000 fires south of Hamilton, near Sula. We'd driven through the burnt-out but recovering Sula forest to get to Hamilton this summer. Back in 2000, heavy winds made one fire in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness grow almost 10,000 acres in one day. Here is a spectacular Sula shot by John McColgan:

"The Elk Bath"

 "If fire can be called beautiful, this photographer has captured it.
Taken by the Alaskan Type I Incident Management Team on August 6, 2000 on the
East Fork of the Bitterroot River on the Sula Complex. By John McColgan,
Bureau of Land Management, Alaska Fire Service.

"One of Montana's many year 2000 Wildfires.

Read the News Story by Rob Chaney about this photo in The Missoulian Newspaper

"Near Sula, Montana"

The Elk Bath
"John McColgan, Bureau of Land Management, Alaska Fire Service. 

Copyright 1998-2011 All Rights Reserved"

The Missoulian carried other reports on these unprecented fires:  http://missoulian.com/uncategorized/article_d305bf80-d395-50ff-915f-3214f6ea4426.html.  What a fascinating place!!

August 17, 2011

The cat-share program

Josephine, the Cat.
We will be traveling back to Montana, sometime September-December, looking at more houses with Vicky, our real-estate guru; maybe cross-country skiing; certainly seeing friends there. But it's clear that we're hunkering down in our old St. Louis neighborhood for much of fall and winter when...

...we have the chimney of our living room's little gray-enameled wood stove not just swept but scoured...
... and we have two big loads of firewood delivered...

... and we start up again an informal cat-share program with our neighbors' personality-packed little black cat.
 
Josephine was with us all of last winter while her family was in Cambridge, Mass. The dad did a visiting-professor gig at Harvard; the mom worked long-distance from their temporary home; the two little girls happily attended public schools.  We'd long admired their Josephine from afar.  She's more like a puppy-cat, following her young family around their front yard, scooting along with them up and down the block, guarding their front porch from a perch at the top of the steps.  She'd come visit us on our front stoop occasionally, and that was long before we began feeding her.  She'd roll around on the sidewalk and meow a bit and show off her fur coat. In the sun, it glistened like the finest pelt of little black bear.

We're cat lovers at heart. But we'd lost two great ones -- a 20+year-old calico and a 10-year-old white cat, in the space of a couple of years recently, and we weren't ready for another full-time feline. A loaner cat?? It seemed like a perfect way to ease back slowly into catdom.
A wary cat.
And then we fell in love.  Josephine fit right in, if a little warily at first because there were just the three of us rattling around this big old house.  Food -- even that disgusting, slightly greasy and too-aromatic dry stuff that she loves and that we once fed our own cats -- cemented our relationship.

There wasn't a laundry basket she didn't take as her own, or an empty grocery bag temporarily set down on the kitchen floor that she didn't dive into.
She'd sack out by the warmth of the wood stove, when our sofa was angled up next to it. She'd leave bits of her fine pelt everywhere. My vacuum cleaner did overtime all winter long on our prissy, white New Orleans-inspired (Alex is a NOLA native, I'm a convert) slipcovers...
Lest you think that all Josephine did was laze about, you should see one of the little gifts she'd leave for us on our front door mat...
Josephine is quite the mouser.
She also brought us a couple of equally dead sparrows, plus one of our beloved juncos. But mostly, mice. Our garage is nearly rodent-free!
 
And when spring came, she enjoyed the back deck as much as we did.
She especially liked the oat grass that I grew from a free sample I'd been sent of Renee's Garden  "Gourmet Cat Treats" seeds.
...Her new salad nestled on back steps between pots of squirrel-protected arugula and dwarf kale.
And then there was the planter of nasturtiums, also started from seed in our basement. Somehow, when they got into a planter outside, Josephine thought they'd make a bed! And also somehow, she didn't kill the plants.

Now Josephine's first family is home for good. We see her less often.

But whether her "owners" know it or not, we're still in the cat-share business. It started simply. We'd see Josephine outside and give her a rub.  That led to whistling for her (okay, we're dotty but we do have a bona fide way to whistle that worked on our white cat and now works on Josephine).  As I said, she is a puppy-cat; she comes when you call!

We hesitated about buying a new bag of cat food.  We thought her first family might not appreciate that. Recently, though, when Alex was making tuna salad, he poured the bit of tuna water into a small clean deli container. When Josephine came by a bit later, she slurped it up and licked the tiny plastic tub dry, moving it all over the pantry.

What made the difference about having real cat food in the house, however, was the recent week that the first family went on brief vacation and hired a neighbor kid to let Josephine in and out of their house. One midnight, as I was locking up in back, she was at our door, howling to come in.  I let her,  of course, got her some water and emailed the fam.  Later, I heard from them that they were on the trip.  Josephine seemed to want to stay here. I kept them apprised, we bought her catfood and fresh litter and the rest, as the cliche goes, is history.

Now we're back to seeing her a few times a week and when we do, dropping a pinch of cat food -- just a snack, really -- into a bowl each time. One recent weekday, her visit turned into a nap on the guest bed upstairs. Another day, she hung out in the backyard for a bit and helped us garden.  Here's how truly dotty I am: I bought her a Trader Joe's recycled-cardboard scratching pad with organic cat nip that you spread on top ($6 for it all). She spent about three minutes on it and that was it.

The scratch pad is still in a corner of our kitchen floor, and I still have hopes that she'll use it less dismissively. She is a great cat and greatly appreciated by her family. We miss her when she's not here, but we're so glad that they found her, cared for her, feed her, get her in at night and are truly back in her life full-time.  All bets are off, however, when the weather gets cold enough for firing up our wood stove. We'll have more than a part-time cat then, I'm betting. That radiant heat is way better than cat nip; it's like kitty-cat crack.




August 6, 2011

Happily, still house hunting in MT...

Ohio River, at sunset
...but getting some perspective on it by thinking about the east -- Louisville, Ky., where Mom and I recently checked out the sunset after dinner at Blue Dog (http://goo.gl/HJzBB). This bank of the Ohio, east of downtown, might've been close to where William Clark tied up, then climbed the hill for a visit with his sister at the old Locust Grove Plantation.
Locust Grove
A Web site calls it, "The last remaining residential building to ever provide shelter to the Lewis and Clark Expedition leaders, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark, the Locust Grove is a National Historic Landmark in Louisville, Kentucky. It was owned by Clark’s sister Lucy Clark Croghan and her husband, William Croghan." (See http://www.locustgrove.org/). An 18th century "domestic Georgian" mansion, it is a far cry from one of the little 20th century Montana homes that we've been looking to buy. Alex and I turned down the final counter-offer on the recent Hamilton cottage, after our appraisals came in late and way lower than the asking price. It didn't help that the stock market tanked that week, and we also would've had expensive repairs for some aforementioned home-inspection problems. So...

We are fine with the decision. In fact, we go out and "celebrate" with our good friends Hank and Rochelle over an excellent Missouri-sourced dinner and wine at Farmhaus (http://goo.gl/6Mv9o), including...
...my "local summer salad," served in a Ball canning jar that's carefully spilled onto a plate at table
Onward.

One or both of us plan to make another trip to Montana this fall (maybe staying into winter to do some cross-country skiing on what we hear are impeccably groomed trails at Lost Trail Pass!!). We'd fly this time; save the next drive for a rental truck with furniture!

I keep the Wyoming fortune cookie in mind...
What an adventure! Wish us luck.



August 3, 2011

Homes, Homes on the Range?

Joplin, Mo., where many homes were destroyed by the May 22 tornado (photo by J.B. Forbes)
How lucky am I? We have a fantastic 100-year-old (this year!) St. Louis home that we've rehabbed (okay, it's not perfect, but it's close enough). We own my mother's pristine little 1920s condo in Louisville, with windows on three sides looking out on mature maples, sweet bay and conifers; she feels like she's in a tree house even though she's on the first floor, and she loves it! And we're able to pursue yet another home -- an in-town cottage in Hamilton, Montana! Some people have lost homes, lost everything, and we've been just frugal enough and lucky enough to be able to add on.

If we got the little Montana place, I am thinking we'd rent it much of the year through a wonderful woman there, and "book" our own visits in the heat of July and August (here), plus a month or so in winter for cross-country skiing and other outdoor winter stuff. But we're still struggling with how we might divide our time.

I think about all of these options and how incredibly lucky we are to have them when I visit the photo exhibit of Joplin's tornado-flattened homes.  My former colleagues at the St. Louis Post-Dispatch, senior staff photographer Jim Forbes...
the lovely Mr. Forbes
 ... and (Pulitzer Prize finalist) Robert Cohen, put on this showing with help from the newspaper and from Schiller's Camera to raise money for Joplin. I missed the party and silent auction but stop by the next day and fall in love with the horrible beauty of these shots.
(photo by Robert Cohen)
I can't stop thinking about them, and when I email Forbes about one of his images, he says that if I match the silent-auction price, I can get it, framed!! What a deal. Happy Birthday to me, and the proceeds go to Joplin! Can't wait. 

Meantime, I also can't wait to hear about the Hamilton, MT, house.


Do we really get it?  (Do we really get it?) Maybe we weren't meant to have the house. It is all so complicated.

Oy vey is the only, short-hand way to describe it.  We are trying to be the best -- VERY BEST -- consumers, getting inspections on ALL of the pertinent issues before closing on what may be our "last, best place." And yet, those very inspections may be our undoing.

They turn up many unforseen problems with the cute little house: an aging electrical system that may have been grandfathered in to the local code, in an otherwise beautifully refurbished home, circa 1939; a decades-old shingled roof needing to be replaced; but most upsetting, a basement radon reading of 16 (normal levels shouldn't go above 4, according to the EPA, the Montana Dept. of Human Health and Public Services and other authorities; YIKES!).
granite in nearby Bodgett Creek canyon
Montana is a surrounded by and built on top of gorgeous granite -- a natural source of radioactivity. It is "a terrible beauty," to hijack the phrase and its meaning from the Irish poet William Butler Yeats. But it IS horribly wonderful -- all of that decaying radioactive uranium in those gorgeous upthrusts of steel-gray rock.

It's kind of funny, too. Only one in ten houses that we looked at had been radon tested. The tested one had, indeed, gone through a radon-mitigation process. We wonder if Montanans don't worry about such things, take it as a part of life in the Bitterroot. In fact, online, I found this funny little Montana "resort" site featuring so-called Radon Health Mines, at http://www.roadsideamerica.com/story/2143. People with arthritis and lupus (me on both counts, but very mild cases) go there, the story says, for "natural" treatments!?! They do keep children and pregnant women out. I would never partake.

And yet, it makes me think again and again about the radon. We've made pre-sale radon mitigation a condition of the cottage purchase -- no negotiating. We've also asked for a price reduction to factor in the new roof and electrical work that we would have to do.


(Crickets.)  The sellers are very quiet. We get occasional emails from our real-estate broker saying they're "still pondering... it may be a day or two yet before they respond." 

Meanwhile, I go back to my life in St. Louis. I get approved for an American Express credit card (whoopee!! don't tell me, Equifax, that I don't have a credit rating!!!).  We're slogging past the spate of 100+ temperatures (103 yesterday) and are expecting a "cool spell" of high temps only in the mid-90s.  Out I go today, to work a little in our scorched garden and then on to a meeting for Brightside St. Louis (see a new promotional image for my favorite daffodil-supplying, not-for-profit, below).

http://operationbrightside.org/
And we wait. And we wait. And we wait. I'm thinking that I very well may be planting fall crops of lettuces and kale in my St. Louis garden by the time we hear back from Montana. Oy, again...

July 23, 2011

The Last Best Place...

                                                                                              ...may be our last best place...
On the beautiful Blodgett Overlook Trail, MT
As of this week, we have a contract on the beautifully renovated, cedar-sided '30s cottage in Hamilton, MT (below). Woo hoo!


Current owners have done a fantastic job with the sunny, cheerful Craftsman-like interior -- gorgeous wood floors, fireplace, bright kitchen open to a dining room plus cute little built-in for an office that faces a rear, garden-view picture window (MINE, MINE, ALL MINE!).  I can't wait to get back into gardening but starting in front. I want to plump-up the foundation plantings, prune suckers off of that gorgeous shade tree (Boxelder, I think), maybe add a little landscaped, white picket fence, just along the front sidewalk? Alex is rolling his eyes at that last detail -- haha!  But first...
 At Lee Metcalf Wildlife Refuge

...we must get our ducks in a row!

We've been too frugal (is that possible?) in St. Louis, with only debit cards for several years,  two paid-off mortgages and two paid-off cars. Our potential lender is digging around in 10 or so other promptly-paid accounts to re-establish a credit report, can you believe? In our defense, we've skipped such things as travel-bonus credit cards simply because we've been taking pretty adventurous driving vacations in recent years (principally to a rustic family island in northern Lake Superior). Oh, there was that one frequent-flyer-paid trip to Italy and another to Seattle. But we'd really given no thought to opening new credit. Guess what? Today we've both applied for such cards, not to change the Montana mortgage situation but for future travel between that state, St. Louis and places where relatives live.

We're being assured by lender, real-estate broker and others that we're doing the right things to keep all our "ducks" in a row and not "jumping off"...
...as from a log at the Montana refuge...
...and getting away!
This is such a major life-changing event!! We are boggled. Our heads literally are exploding every time we think of some new detail, some lost opportunity. What would we take on a first trip? (Penske, the most reliable rental-truck co., doesn't have any drop-off points in MT so, after unloading, we'd have to go another 3 hours into nearby Idaho, jeez). Who will house-sit for us when/if we go?? (Suddenly, we think we may have an answer to that one -- a friend's wonderful daughter)? Ultimately, should we join SabbaticalHomes.com, "The academic community’s resource for home exchanges and home rentals worldwide since 2000," for those itinerant professors visiting Washington U. and looking for a house with three bedrooms, two baths, etc. etc., all within a few blocks of the U.??? Will we even sell the St. Louis house in a better market?!!!?? We do not know. We do know that we love this house and all of the improvements we've made.

We also keep thinking about how very much we'll miss vacationing at our peaceful Isle Royale/Lake Superior, Gale family cabin:
sunrise from the Gale Island front dock

We think, too, of course, about how often we'll get to see our family living in Kentucky and Indiana:
my Mom, Marilyn Homan
my son, Fred Gibson Jr.

Fred's (and his wife Allison's) daughter Shelby...
...and their sons Zach, left, and Trey
Also, my brother Ralph Homan, his wife Sandy and their grown kids are not only welcome but also strongly encouraged to visit!! About that, I have two words to say to the entire family -- guest rooms!!
niece Allison Homan, nephews Andrew Homan, middle, and Michael Homan
And there are our friends in Hamilton, some new to me, some of them Alex's oldest buddies, going back as far as his summer-long vacations to Montana in the 1950s:
Kelsey Milner and grandchild
Kelsy welcoming daughters Liz and Laura home
 The Milner family is quite a tribe when they all get together, as they did in June when their late, great matriarch and uber-environmentalist Doris Milner was honored by the U.S. Forest Service at a special mountain-top event. Later, there were big dinners on the Milner family home's back deck.


Doris' children are Scott, center; Jean, right; Eric, behind Jean; Kelsy's wife Mary shepherds kids; others are grandchildren and great-grandchildren
 
But quieter evenings up on the family home's back deck also are not to be missed (thanks for the open invitation, Eric!).  And the mountain-view dinners at Kels and Mary's are a wonderful treat.

Hope to see all y'all soon!!









July 13, 2011

Daffodils in July??

Narcissus 'Tahiti'
(photo from DaffSeek.org)
I know that I am home in St. Louis because the humidity is 79 percent and temps are threatening to go up to 100 degrees again on Sunday (I should be grateful that the high today will only be 89 and that it rained a little yesterday). And I'm thinking about -- what? a swim in a pool? a run through a sprinkler? a nap in the air-conditioning? (yes, the latter is a clear possibility this afternoon); another vacation in cool, clear Montana? (heck, yeah!). 

But I'm so yearning for cooler temps here, the kind of cool ones that define fall in this part of the country. And for me, thinking about autumn is one of several reasons to think about the bulbs that I'll plant when there's a nip of frost in the air. As I have been volunteering with Brightside St. Louis this year (formerly known as Operation Brightside), I've become aware of their wonderful program of taking orders for Dutch bulbs in mid-summer (now!) through fall as a major fund-raising effort. They do it every year. The bulbs you order may arrive in the mail or get picked up at the Forest Park Greenhouses -- whatever you arrange -- in October. 


And this year, there's a new twist to the affordable, beautiful Brightside bulbs. A brand new Midwest Mix is available, of the hardiest narcissus bulbs for this region! Brightside has partnered with the Greater St. Louis Daffodil Society to pick a mix of 30 best bulbs. They will bloom just in time for Brightside's 30th anniversary next spring -- 2012. And each bag of 30 in the Midwest Mix costs only $16. What a deal!!!! Go to http://operationbrightside.org/ to learn, and see, more (such as below).


Narcissus 'Pink Charm'
(photo from DaffSeek.org)

I was lucky enough to sit in on the meeting with the daffodil society's past-president Jason Delaney and current president Lynn Slackman, and with Mary Lou Green of Brightside, of course, when they chose little orange-and-yellow 'Tahiti' plus ivory-and-pinky-orange 'Pink Charm,' along with sturdy, tall, all-yellow 'Carlton' with its sweet fragrance and fierce habit of naturalizing (if that's what you want in your garden); 'Slim Whitman,' 'Barrett Browning,' and 'Suada' are the other three varieties in the mix.


And later, it was so much fun to go with the amazing Jason to KMOV-Channel 4 for a live interview about the daffodil choices.  Jason has traveled around the world (see http://www.mobot.org/hort/edu/jasondel.shtml) collecting bulbs and lecturing and is one of the youngest senior outdoor horticulturists at the Missouri Botanical Garden. 

Jason Delaney
We arrive at the station -- just a stoplight away from the Gateway Arch -- and head to the compact, cheerful little studio of my favorite local show, Great Day St. Louis (http://www.kmov.com/great-day-st-louis).


Jason, left, huddles with co-host Matt Chambers in darkness behind the set.
And then we get the word that the network is preempting some, maybe all, of the local show for President Obama's press conference on the debt-ceiling crisis.
Pres. Obama and KMOV technician

We all stop and listen as Pres. Obama delivers a cool, calm, reasoned assessment of the situation (I am biased here, as you may know; my car already bears an Obama 2012 sticker). 


As it turns out, a savvy KMOV producer decides to tape Jason's segment instead of asking us to come again another day.  Jason and Matt carry on...
And daffodils have their July day...
'Pink Charm' on the monitor, right; Jason and Matt on-camera, left.
...which will be Wed., July 20, as it's currently scheduled. Watch live, set the TiVo for 10 a.m. that day, or go afterwards to the station's Web site (http://www.kmov.com/great-day-st-louis) for a look. Can autumn be very far off, St. Louis??



July 5, 2011

Homan is home, for now anyway...

We are back in St. Louis! The weather's not so bad... a bit more humid than in Montana, no mountains gleaming in the distance, but hey, it's home. The folks who house sat for us left the house cleaner than  we did for them, I think. They cut the grass and also killed one of our many orchids by overwatering. I remind them that all gardeners kill plants, but they buy us a replacement cymbidium from my fine old employer Bowood Farms (http://www.bowoodfarms.com) anyway.  My own garden's perennials are overgrown and everything needs major weeding, including the patio, so no pictures of that.

But we have a few, very fond memories of our last days on the road.

There's the unusual amount of snow still hanging around the scenic byways of the aptly named Snowy Range in Wyoming...


...in July! So much snow that we see skateboarder kids -- buff and tanned, in cargo shorts and T-shirts -- carrying their boards along the roadside looking for the next ride. We eat lunch on the porch of a cute, old hotel in Centennial (http://www.themountainviewhotel.com/) and then hightail it to the east. It's the end of true touristing.

We stay overnight with Alex's cousin Kathy in Golden, Colo. Her house in the foothills looks out over Denver -- quite a spectacular view at night. And the type of coal train that John McPhee wrote about so eloquently in the New Yorker (http://www.newyorker.com/archive/2005/10/03/051003fa_fact_mcphee) travels on tracks down the hill from her house.

I wish I could say the rest of the drive east through Colorado and Kansas is beautiful. It is not. What it is is hot, hazy and boring. Sorry, but we simply are tired of driving. And flat corn and wheat fields -- even the Konza Prairie, as we zip past -- do not inspire.

And so our little oasis is Kansas City, where we've booked a tiny room with balcony and bath, on the third floor of the historic Southmoreland Inn near Country Club Plaza (http://www.southmoreland.com/)...

We stop in long enough to shower, then dash back toward downtown and Lidia's, the Italian restaurant of the New York chef Lidia Bastianich. It's located in a former railroad house just north of KC's Union Station (http://www.lidias-kc.com/) and looks dramatically different than its Web site photos...

...with "fireworks" overhead (perfect for 4th of July weekend dining)...
 ...a sweet little Midwest-brick garden entryway...


...and a rather thin crowd at 8 p.m. But fellow diners who are there are mostly families feasting on Lidia's Sunday night "family style" prix fixe dinners. That's what we have, too -- delightful antipasti, salad, pasta with garlicky braised greens, two entrees of yummy lasagna or beef, and panna cotta for dessert -- with leftovers to put in our cooler for snacking, later on. (The Web site prices family dining at $22 apiece, but we paid $24 -- still a bargain!)

 And as wine is served...
...there's a final surprise. The type of coal trains from Wyoming that we saw pass Cousin Kathy's and move east through the plains to fire up far-away power plants pass quietly by just beyond Lidia's patio and parking lot. It feels like we're supposed to be there -- tying up lose ends of the trip.